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Premium Member
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121 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Need some help please,
Since I got my SSR last week, the top has opened and closed many times with no problems..yesterday must have three or four times. This morning..nothing..no sounds..nothing. read the article on the procedures and double checked the AC is not on nor is the rear cover release in the wrong position. The only odd thing is the readout says reduce speed which is odd since I'm not moving..any ideas?
Thanks,
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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2,236 Posts
I'm so sorry you're having an issue so soon after your purchase. Chin up, help should be right around the corner.

Dave
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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10,319 Posts
“Reduce Speed” means that the computer thinks you are not stopped with your foot on the brake. This is odd.... The system requires that the vehicle be stopped with your foot on the brake before pressing the button. Could be something in the ant-lock system that feeds the speed signal, but have never seen an issue there......... double check that the brake lights are on when you put your foot on the brake.

Maybe Dick or Ed will chime in on this.

Regards,

Mike
 

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Premium Member
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121 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info.
Update..was stopped at a long traffic light so I decided to give another try..bingo went down just fine..will see what happens after I get back in the garage.
 

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Premium Member
04 SSR
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3,296 Posts
Could be stray AC current tricking modules.
Do you have a battery charger connected?
Try operating with engine off. Possible bad alternator diode.

Try resetting pcm, pull fuse or disconnect neg battery.
 

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Ex SoCal Nut
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9,962 Posts
John, :agree with Mike. The wheel sensors must read "complete Stop" before the top will start it's cycle, no matter whether "up or down". Since the top has worked in the past, it's probably Not a catastrophic failure, but, one of procedure. Hope you find the Easy Fix....
 

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Daily Driver
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8,980 Posts
Hmm, I used to put the top down when leaving work while rolling through the plant toward the gate at 5 to 7 mph. Put my foot on the brake and hit the roof switch then as soon as the top started to cycle take my foot off the brake and keep moving. If I got up to 9 or 10 mph the top would stop and the DIC chastize me. :puzzled:
 

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Premium Member
'06 FPR Smokin Asphalt; '04 Ulta Violet
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Thanks for the info.
Update..was stopped at a long traffic light so I decided to give another try..bingo went down just fine..will see what happens after I get back in the garage.
Maybe you had your foot on the brake but not pushing enough to activate the brake switch?

Nick
 

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Ex SoCal Nut
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9,962 Posts
Maybe you had your foot on the brake but not pushing enough to activate the brake switch?
Nick
That's only part of it... wheel rotation Has to be... Zero ...
 

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SSR Pit Crew
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13,181 Posts
Hmm, I used to put the top down when leaving work while rolling through the plant toward the gate at 5 to 7 mph. Put my foot on the brake and hit the roof switch then as soon as the top started to cycle take my foot off the brake and keep moving. If I got up to 9 or 10 mph the top would stop and the DIC chastize me. :puzzled:
You are absolutely right Bruce, Push brake to start roof operation, UP or DOWN, you can remove foot from brake and roll up to 5/7 mph while roof is operating, I do it all the time.

Just a "glitch"! Happens sometimes.

Dicktator
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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11,641 Posts
You are absolutely right Bruce, Push brake to start roof operation, UP or DOWN, you can remove foot from brake and roll up to 5/7 mph while roof is operating, I do it all the time.

Just a "glitch"! Happens sometimes.

Dicktator
Things I have read say always have the SSR running with foot brake on before you try. Lots of folks have low batteries with sitting so much and it takes alot of juice to put top up and down. I also use the battery tender so mine is always at full charge.
 
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SSR Pit Crew
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Things I have read say always have the SSR running with foot brake on before you try. Lots of folks have low batteries with sitting so much and it takes alot of juice to put top up and down. I also use the battery tender so mine is always at full charge.
Takes 13amps to operate roof, you should always have engine running.

Ignition must see 9 VOLTS to start engine, 13 amps to run roof without engine, runs down battery to 9 volts very quickly!

Dicktator
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
2006 Pacific Blue times 23198 & 21474
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Hmm, I used to put the top down when leaving work while rolling through the plant toward the gate at 5 to 7 mph. Put my foot on the brake and hit the roof switch then as soon as the top started to cycle take my foot off the brake and keep moving. If I got up to 9 or 10 mph the top would stop and the DIC chastize me. :puzzled:
I used to do this at a traffic light until I got caught in the left lane and those to my right would not let me over at slow speed. I bent the hinges on the flipper cover and caused the related issues we have all heard about. I no longer do this if there is ANY possibility of not being able to stop and complete the operation.
 
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My First Permagrin !
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All good advice guys . I've read too many of your posts to chance screwing up the roof ,
because I couldn't wait till the top was finished cycling .
Like Dick said ! He probably didn't do all the steps that require the top to operate properly .
I've done that and it doesn't take much for it not to work . Dave
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #16
Good News Update...seems to be working fine now after three ups and downs..either a computer glitch..or I did not put enough pressure on the brake...just learning...thanks for all the advice!
 

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Just got mine on the road again. Put new battery in it yesterday. Been driving it today. Decided to go for a ride tonight with the top down. Disconnected the trickle charger, indicating battery was full. Got in, started her up. Put foot on brake like a big dog, and pressed the button. No love. Silence and the dash warned something (didn't catch name) switch had failed. Started to drive and got the roof is ajar warning. Held up. Got out pushed down and back on cab. No movement discernible. Decided to get on highway and rattle test it. Got ten miles down the road with roof ajar coming and going. Pulled into parking lot. Stepped hard on brake, again.pressed button. This time it works as it always had. Now, to see if it comes back up when I get her home...
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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Just got mine on the road again. Put new battery in it yesterday. Been driving it today. Decided to go for a ride tonight with the top down. Disconnected the trickle charger, indicating battery was full. Got in, started her up. Put foot on brake like a big dog, and pressed the button. No love. Silence and the dash warned something (didn't catch name) switch had failed. Started to drive and got the roof is ajar warning. Held up. Got out pushed down and back on cab. No movement discernible. Decided to get on highway and rattle test it. Got ten miles down the road with roof ajar coming and going. Pulled into parking lot. Stepped hard on brake, again.pressed button. This time it works as it always had. Now, to see if it comes back up when I get her home...
You have either one, or both of the Tonneau Latch switches sticking. The warning you most likely got was “TLAT Switch Fail” (Tonneau Latch Switch Fail). Those are the microswitches behind the 4-bolt panels on each side of the roof compartment. Go to Dicktator’s “How To” Library and get the procedure for repairing (lubricating) the microswitches. You will need to stop at Home Depot and buy a small can of CRC 2-26 (silicone electrical contact lubricant that is safe for plastics) for about $5 before you start on this. It’s in the electrical section near the wire nuts and tie wraps.

Regards,

Mike
 
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