Before buying it:
- Check aire pressure in the tires before taking it on a test drive. odds are that it is down to 12 to 16 psi if the dealer maintenance of new vehcle tire pressures is typical. Insist on filling them to 32 cold BEFORE driving it to avoid damaging the tires and wheels and to get a realistic idea of the handling.
- Does it start easy and run decently, at idle and on the road, or after sitting a long time, did the fuel in the injection system and tank start to varnish up and clog orifices? If latter, it will require a thorough cleaning via an agresssive fuel system cleaner added to a tankful of gas or 2. If it has really been sitting a year, the gas probably broke down a lot and the question is how much varnish depisiting did it do.
- Check carefully for body panel scratches and dings, in bright lighting. In a year's time, a lot of scratches and dings could have appeared.
- Ensure that you check each of the following warrantable items. They are warranty repairs, so will not cost you, BUT (a) they are a pain to get done, and (b) some of them, like roof or window adjustment problems, might NEVER be properly repaired if they exist on this specific vehicle, because they are HARD to fix and most Chevy dealer mechanics don't see many SSRs:
- roof scratched during lowering or raising due to incorrect adjustment
- roof does not seal well at highway speed due to incorrect adjustment
- windows do not properly snap up INTO ribber trim a second after a door is closed
- windows do not seal well at highway speed
- blower motor TOO noisy on speed setting "2" (SOME noise is normal, because of the way the electronics work on that setting, but not too much!)
- driveshaft makes "ting" sound when vehicle put into drive or reverse
- auxiliary guages ALL work (easy for installer on this dealer-installed accessory to short the guages when installing. If shorted, voltage guage works, but NOT GPH or transmission temperature)
- If this SSR is equipped with the deluxe cargo bay option, esure it has BOTH colored and woodgrain strips, AND the 2 extra strips required for the outboard tracks when not using side saddlebags or cargo net
AFTER buying it:
- Change the oil only after running it long enough to get the oil to full operating temperature, so that as much condensate as possible in the old oil is flashed off.
Jim G