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Discussion Starter #1
Why are some Fanatics trying to get as many years out of a battery as possible? With all the damage to the system that low voltage can cause. As the volts go down, amps go UP! Just about everything in the truck goes thru the switch. With higher amps the switch is damaged. Plus the truck will not start at less than 9 volts, 12-9 leaves a 3volt margin before you have to have a Jump Start and maybe doing even more damage.

BATTERYS ARE CHEAP compared to SSR Parts and Service.
I heed the Dicktator Motto: Change the Battery every 3 years.

The very expensive, premium, Bragging Rights Battery that I use now is sold by company with outlets all over.The battery called the Maxx 78S, 3 years free replacement warranty, 650 cold cranking amps, free testing and install. And are you braced for this extremely high price?!!! $93.76. That is $93.76 devided by 1095 days is $.08 (actually $.0856255, before someone gets out their calculator) per day for no hassle. Here is a link https://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=Maxx 78S

Jack
 

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Why are some Fanatics trying to get as many years out of a battery as possible? With all the damage to the system that low voltage can cause. As the volts go down, amps go UP! Just about everything in the truck goes thru the switch. With higher amps the switch is damaged. Plus the truck will not start at less than 9 volts, 12-9 leaves a 3volt margin before you have to have a Jump Start and maybe doing even more damage.

BATTERYS ARE CHEAP compared to SSR Parts and Service.
I heed the Dicktator Motto: Change the Battery every 3 years.

The very expensive, premium, Bragging Rights Battery that I use now is sold by company with outlets all over.The battery called the Maxx 78S, 3 years free replacement warranty, 650 cold cranking amps, free testing and install. And are you braced for this extremely high price?!!! $93.76. That is $93.76 devided by 1095 days is $.08 per day for no hassle. Here is a link https://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=Maxx 78S

Jack
:smile2:
Well, I'm counting on your knowledge of just how batteries work to answer a question I've been pondering for a while.

(As an "aside", think of a portable air tank).......If you have 60 PSI in that portable tank and go to fill a flat tire, you are only going to get about 30 PSI into the tire and then the pressures will "equalize" and although there is still around 30 PSI in the portable tank, it will NOT transfer into the tire.)

With that analogy in mind, I'm questioning the (direction) of current flow into (or) out of a battery.

Case in point....The SSR that I now have, the prior owner told me that although he had installed a new premium battery, it would be drained after a week of not being started.

He further told me that he had it "checked" and that there was no perasetic (or whatever) excessive drain on that battery.

So........I was thinking that if I were at a car show, and wanted to display the under the hood lights and the rear tail gate lights that were already installed....maybe it would help to keep the SSR battery fully charged if I hooked up one of my lithium battery chargers to one of the cigarette lighter sockets on board.

However, my battery charger booklet says the (cigarette lighter socket) port is for "input"........meaning the charger is looking to get extra zip from the SSR (versus) what I'm wanting to do........give an extra "boost" to the SSR battery.

Hopefully, someone with a better understanding of (current flow) can help me understand if my attempt to (help) maintain the SSR battery during a car show or whatever in this manner would work or not.:|
 

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Current will flow from the lighter port to the car as long as the voltage is higher from your charger, just like your air tank analogy.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Emergency Only.

Moscooter my last Chevrolet before this truck had 1 coil (This one has 8). The only thing that used power on that '55 Bel Air when the switch was off was the clock that did not keep accurate time. The windows indexing, the top, the engine fuel air mixture, the timing, spark, the torque control, RPM limiter speed limiter, engine overheat shutdown, the transmission shifting, are all controlled by computers. Each of these computers "talk" to each other so the truck will do what you want it to. They do not like low voltage or amp surges. I would suggest that you keep exterior power sources away from those computers with the exception on a quality trickle charger if your truck is not a daily driver.

I use the Battery Tender Jr. I have the pigtail connected to the terminal in the Red Box under the hood. I have the pigtail just coming out between the chrome hood ornament and the grille bar that goes from headlight to headlight.
The connection has a cover that plugs into the connection when not in use and is just tucked back out of sight. The other end of the connection has a red 6" tape hanging down so that when I walk in front of the truck I see it and unplug.

I have had LEDs under the hood, running boards, backlit door handles, in the bed for a number of years. You might want to do what I do at car shows. You have a 150 AMP charger under the hood. So about each hour I open the exhaust cutout, fire it up, romp on it a couple of times and demonstrate the wonderful sound of American Iron thorough straight pipes. Let it idle a few minutes to charge the battery. As a side benefit the exhaust cutout scares small children away from the truck when it barks at them.

Jack
 

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After two red top I went with wally mart. Just because if in the United States or Canada I can always find a Wally for warranty.
Will they do the install? I know some places say they will not install under a vehicle because of insurance. Just wondering
 

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Thanks for the feedback on current flow (direction).........being as I did hope.

Jack,

I also have a Battery Tender Jr. hooked up similarly. But it stays amber for a couple of days or more before it finally goes back to "green". I've used BTs for years on my Harleys, my John Deere rider and my old streetrod.

All of these never seemed to take any where close to as much time to flip to green on the B.T.
 

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I DO WINDOWS
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I have used a solar panel trickle charger on bed outlet at car shows. So maybe it is doing nothing for me?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Solar

Rebel, I had not thought of a solar panel charger. Harbor Freight 1.5 watt, $13.99 https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=solar+battery+charger . Very good idea, should help if not carry the load for the LEDS. All though I do not do general public car shows anymore, only SSR functions. The last general public show that I did my wife discovered a man watching his son run a HotWheels car up and down the front fender of the truck. The father became very irate when my wife told the kid to get the car off of the fender. Also I had opened the tailgate to keep people from scratching it if they leaned against it to look the GM tools in the drop down on the bed cover. Bad plan, some one leaned in from the side with a big belt buckle and put 4 gouges 5" long on the fender. It cost $300 to have the damages repaired. No more public shows.

Jack
 

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I don't know much about Batteries, except that when they are LOW, R won't start.

I do know that the ignition switch MUST see 9 Volts for the R to Start and run.

Let's see 9 from 12 LEAVES only 3 Volts to play with!!

I do know that the SECURITY system is always ON and draining the battery.

I do know that as the battery gets weaker/ages, it can cause Points in Ignition Switch to "BURN" making poor contact.

I do know that the R has Multiplex wiring, which means more than one "SIGNAL" goes over each wire to ECM. (Engine Control Module/Computer). Poor signal can give wrong command.

I do know that GROUND is what completes the circuit, making all 13 Grounds/03/04 or 16 Grounds/05/06 very important.

SO, as Jack450 said, I change my Battery AND Ignition Switch (A/CDelco D1426D) about every 4 years. Be sure it is A/CDelco Ignition switch/knock-offs are out there!

I just don't like having problem if one can be avoided.

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Battery Cable
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Negative
Part Number: CBL 718315
Product Line: NAPA Battery Cables


BATTERY CHANGE instructions are on my SSR HOW to LIBRARY:

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

ALL THE BEST FOR 2018!!!

Dicktator

1. BAD Ground at Battery Negative Cable Body connection, took OUT RDM, Ignition Switch.
2. Negative Battery Cable body connection behind passengers tire.
3. FRAME Battery Ground, Negative Cable.
4. Negative Battery Cable at Battery.
5. NEW Battery Cable from NAPA, GM has discontinued NEGATIVE Battery Cable.
 

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I don't know much about Batteries, except that when they are LOW, R won't start.

I do know that the ignition switch MUST see 9 Volts for the R to Start and run.

Let's see 9 from 12 LEAVES only 3 Volts to play with!!

I do know that the SECURITY system is always ON and draining the battery.

I do know that as the battery gets weaker/ages, it can cause Points in Ignition Switch to "BURN" making poor contact.

I do know that the R has Multiplex wiring, which means more than one "SIGNAL" goes over each wire to ECM. (Engine Control Module/Computer). Poor signal can give wrong command.

I do know that GROUND is what completes the circuit, making all 13 Grounds/03/04 or 16 Grounds/05/06 very important.

SO, as Jack450 said, I change my Battery AND Ignition Switch (A/CDelco D1426D) about every 4 years. Be sure it is A/CDelco Ignition switch/knock-offs are out there!

I just don't like having problem if one can be avoided.

.
Battery Cable
-
Negative
Part Number: CBL 718315
Product Line: NAPA Battery Cables


BATTERY CHANGE instructions are on my SSR HOW to LIBRARY:

https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

ALL THE BEST FOR 2018!!!

Dicktator

1. BAD Ground at Battery Negative Cable Body connection, took OUT RDM, Ignition Switch.
2. Negative Battery Cable body connection behind passengers tire.
3. FRAME Battery Ground, Negative Cable.
4. Negative Battery Cable at Battery.
5. NEW Battery Cable from NAPA, GM has discontinued NEGATIVE Battery Cable.
:|
Some good points there. I bought my R from KGB in Vegas. I believe he had purchased a new Optima (I think) battery for it.........but not sure how long ago. Really don't think he fired it up often enough to keep the battery up.

I've not had any problems so far, but it gets cranked up every 4-5 days or less. But as i said,,,,,,if it sits for a day or two and I know I'm not planning on going anywhere in it so I hook up the Battery Tender......(I recognize a BT is not really a charger).....it does take 2 or more days for the B.T. to get back to a green condition.

I will be checking into some of those negative battery cables you mentioned to see if any rust or corrosion going on.

Once I check out the battery box area, I'll likely do to it the same as what I did for yrs on my streetrod. My '39 Chevy had the battery sitting in a tray directly behind the right front wheel. I had to remove the right front tire to swap out batteries. I bought the kind that came with both the (old style) battery posts on top and those on the side as well. This enabled me to hook up to a battery (on/off) switch located on the rt front frame rail and also next to that a "remotely" located set of battery posts in case I needed to jump start it that way.

But the "key" was I coated the battery posts with liquid electrical tape. It comes in a small can with a brush in the cap. Once it dries, it protects those terminal connections from all the elements.:wink2:
 

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Knock your socks off - battery cost is not an issue obviously - just make sure your battery is recycled

https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1044372_who-knew-a-car-battery-is-the-worlds-most-recycled-product

I still haven't accepted the "change them more often than my underwear" concept because it is hard to imagine the ecological damage done over the years from non-recycled batteries.
How many people actually recycle the AA AAA batteries that we consume so many of and are so easy to dump in the garbage can?
Can you imagine the number of those in our dump sites!

I urge we all be aware of the damage un-recycled batteries can do

Change them whenever - it is more important for the daily driver obviously.
Mine, when it dies I will change it.
 

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Keep A Smart Charger On Your Battery And It Wll Last At Least 2-3 Times As Long

I have been using Optima batteries (red tops) and Deltran Battery Tenders for going on 17 years now. Here is what I learned since than....(for what it is worth...just my opinion learned from experience)
Since I started using Deltran Battery Tenders on my batteries (I have Optima Red Top's in all my classic & High Performance vehicles and my Ford F-150 and going to install one on my SSR in early spring) which includes any of my vehicles that sit a lot in one of my garages plus my two tractors, home generator, etc...). I have found that the batteries seem to last "forever"...
1972 Olds 442 - installed in 2001
1970 Roadrunner - installed 3 years ago
2000 Corvette - installed in 2003
2010 Ford F-150 Replace original battery last year
2000 New Holland Tractor - original battery replaced in 2005 with
Sears Diehard battery
2014 John Deere D-105 (still has original battery)
2000 Home Generator (Honda small engine) - original battery
2005 DR leaf vacume system - still has original battery

Batteries seem to last a very long time with the keeping a battery tender on the battery when not being used. Batteries seem to last at least triple the normal 3 year life span...some even more.
There are other brands of "smart" battery chargers out there but I have had "zero" problems with the Deltran units and they are also American made (at least my early ones were...not sure about the new ones) so I usually stick with something that works....."if it ain't broke don't try and fix it"...........LOL
Hope this helps.
 

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I recently had to change the battery in my 2003 Mercedes SUV. When I did I was shocked to see it was a Mercedes battery as I have not been there in a LONG time. It was 9 years old, never a problem until one day it did not start.
 

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Iinfo on Battery for my 2008 Chevy Silverado. (Original battery in it)
Talked to the guy that runs the interstate battery shop yesterday and he also has red and yellow top optima's which is what I wanted. Says he gets a lot of them back with trouble and recommended not to buy one. Says they changed manufacturing and have gone down hill. Recommends interstate MT7-48 as best there is. 730 cold cranking Amps so that is what I went with and free installation. My original lasted 9 years and it is my daily driver.
 

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Every time someone complains about battery life in their SSR,s I usually scratch my head and wonder why my SSR is so different than almost everybody elses. I can leave my truck sit for weeks, even months without my battery going dead. I do not have any kind of disconnect and I don't start it all winter and have only had my battery fail to start the truck once. The battery was eight years old at that point so I put a new one in then. I have never used a battery tender on it and until I have a problem I don't think I will. I live in Minnesota so I would think that alone would be enough to kill a battery in a few years. I have underbody LED's that I have left on for 24 hrs and not had my battery go dead. Am I just lucky or is there something else that other people are doing wrong?
 

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Every time someone complains about battery life in their SSR,s I usually scratch my head and wonder why my SSR is so different than almost everybody elses. I can leave my truck sit for weeks, even months without my battery going dead. I do not have any kind of disconnect and I don't start it all winter and have only had my battery fail to start the truck once. The battery was eight years old at that point so I put a new one in then. I have never used a battery tender on it and until I have a problem I don't think I will. I live in Minnesota so I would think that alone would be enough to kill a battery in a few years. I have underbody LED's that I have left on for 24 hrs and not had my battery go dead. Am I just lucky or is there something else that other people are doing wrong?
I would guess the answer is "A little of both!"
 
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Every time someone complains about battery life in their SSR,s I usually scratch my head and wonder why my SSR is so different than almost everybody elses. I can leave my truck sit for weeks, even months without my battery going dead. I do not have any kind of disconnect and I don't start it all winter and have only had my battery fail to start the truck once. The battery was eight years old at that point so I put a new one in then. I have never used a battery tender on it and until I have a problem I don't think I will. I live in Minnesota so I would think that alone would be enough to kill a battery in a few years. I have underbody LED's that I have left on for 24 hrs and not had my battery go dead. Am I just lucky or is there something else that other people are doing wrong?
Same here, I changed batteries when I installed the spare tire carrier and relocated the battery, My truck was built in August of '04 so the battery was older than that. I gave that one to the guy who helped install the tire mount and he's still using it. Daily driver but sometimes I don't go anywhere for a week, and it has sat for a couple weeks. No tender, no problem.
 
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