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Discussion Starter #1
is it okay to put a floor jack under the pumpkin of the SSR aluminum rear end to jack up the back half all at once?

I need to get the drive line out tonight, having a custom steel drive line made tomorrow.

Thanks
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No problem

That's the point I used when I dismanteled mine for painting.
 

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Go for it

I have lifted both of mine many times that way. It's the best place to lift the rear. And I don't think it's aluminum, it looks like cast iron to me.
 

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SA13355 said:
is it okay to put a floor jack under the pumpkin of the SSR aluminum rear end to jack up the back half all at once?

I need to get the drive line out tonight, having a custom steel drive line made tomorrow.

Thanks
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its not aluminum its cast iron just like trailblazers so jack away
 

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hawaiinfun said:
its not aluminum its cast iron just like trailblazers so jack away
I use a heavy duty jack when you do this, not one of those little ones.
 

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The rear axle housing on my 04 automatic SSR is definitely aluminum. I know because a mechanic who did not realize that stripped one of the bolt holes by using a pneumatic wrench set to a torque suitable for a steel housing, and had to re-tap it.

I really don't like the idea of using that as a lift point on a vehicle that weighs 4800 lb with fuel, and puts almost 50% of that on the rear axle.

Jim G
 

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JimGnitecki said:
I really don't like the idea of using that as a lift point on a vehicle that weighs 4800 lb with fuel, and puts almost 50% of that on the rear axle.

Jim G
So where do you suggest the jack point to be? Thanks Jim
 

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SA13355: If gonig with a replacement STEEL driveshaft, be VERY sure that the builder does an accurate calculation of the critical rpm for it.

With the underdrive transmission ratios in the SSR, and the higher than average rear axle ratio, the shaft rpm gets high. My previous investigations have found that a steel shaft of typical thickness and diameter gets very close to, or over, the critical rpm.

If you hit the critical rpm, the destructive resonance will quikcly destroy driveline components. Even at 1/2 of the critical rpm, there will be bothersome vibration.

Be careful.

Jim G
 

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When Randy changed my driveshaft, he parked my SSR over a slight depression in my drivway and crawled underneath. Did the whole thing without jacking it up.

Or, you could drive either the front or rear wheels up onto ramps. Front is easier, as the rear wheels are pretty wide for most ramps. You need just a bit more ground clearance than you already have to make this swap. (Unless you lowered your SSR via spring kit or by adding a supercharger :) )

Jim G
 

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JimGnitecki said:
The rear axle housing on my 04 automatic SSR is definitely aluminum. I know because a mechanic who did not realize that stripped one of the bolt holes by using a pneumatic wrench set to a torque suitable for a steel housing, and had to re-tap it.

I really don't like the idea of using that as a lift point on a vehicle that weighs 4800 lb with fuel, and puts almost 50% of that on the rear axle.

Jim G
I would vote with Jim on this. If you have a six speed you have steel rear that you could use as a jack point. For me I'll stick to using the frame rails.
 

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Sorry I havent been able to spend alot of time on the board because we are moving.

I would jack it one side at a time and use the floor jack as close to the wheel as possible on each side. The point at which the suspension attaches to the rear axle is the best point to use as a lift point.

I have a Halibrand rear axle for my 1932 Roadster and would never lift the rear from the aluminum center section. I think it is best to use this approach just for safety. I am sure the aluminum could handle it, just trying to be safe that is all.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Jim and Joe for input

Taking Jim's advice and being careful on steel drive shaft critial rpm I asked if shop used my 4:10 gears or stock 3:73 to figure the critial rpm. Shop asked critial what?:skep

End of discussion!:leaving

So, Dennis Reinhart:seeya ,
is this where you come in with another group purchase on your aluminum drive shaft for $525 frt included? Please:)

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