Chevy SSR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have seen multiple postings about erratic windshield wiper & washer operation and the solution always seems to be the wiper motor pulse board. However, my issue is slightly different. When I went to use the wipers last fall (for the first and only time in the year I have owned the truck) they wiped once and never again. I checked fuses and swapped the relay with no luck. Just replaced the wiper motor pulse board but still no luck. Looking for advice on what to replace next (multi-function switch?) or how to troubleshoot further.
 

·
Supporting SSR Hobbyist
Joined
·
10,105 Posts
I have seen multiple postings about erratic windshield wiper & washer operation and the solution always seems to be the wiper motor pulse board. However, my issue is slightly different. When I went to use the wipers last fall (for the first and only time in the year I have owned the truck) they wiped once and never again. I checked fuses and swapped the relay with no luck. Just replaced the wiper motor pulse board but still no luck. Looking for advice on what to replace next (multi-function switch?) or how to troubleshoot further.
I can send you a multi-function switch to try. If it fixes the problem, I'll sell it to you. If it doesn't fix the problem, just send it back...... OK?

Send me a PM with your "ship-to" address.

Mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,966 Posts
Troubleshooting from the factory service manual
i have attached the troubleshooting chart from the manual and the wiring diagram showing the test locations.
Fairly simple procedure.

Realize that wiper motors are bolted to the body with rubber grommets to allow flexing and to restrict noise travel into body. Because of this they a require a ground wire unlike some other motors (tested in step 5)
Also just because the pulse board is new that does not ensure that is good. Example - this weekend I had to replace the hazard switch on my wife's Impala (flasher unit is part of this switch) sometimes the turn signals would come on but not flash. The "new" one i installed the turn signals flashed fast like a burnt bulb but on both sides, the old one when working flashed at a normal rate. Exchanged switch for another "new" one and all is good now.

Also be sure connections between board and motor are good -- try pushing on board while motor is turned on to see if it begins to work (watch your fingers! in case linkage begins to move)

Best of luck - let us know how you make out
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Many Thanks!

Thank you Mike, Autoprof and Dicktator for your responses.

Dicktator - I have looked at both of your guides for the wiper motor and multi-function switch. Followed the wiper motor instructions to install the new pulse board and will certainly need the the other if I need to replace the switch. Thanks!

Autoprof - Just the info I was looking for. Guess I need to get that ultimate drive ordered so I can look these things up for myself. Hopefully will get time next weekend to dig into the troubleshooting guide. Should be able to narrow it down to the switch or the motor, assuming all the connections are good.

Mike - Will certainly take you up on your generous offer if the troubleshooting leads me toward the switch.

Again thanks to all and I will post an update when I know more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Today's Update

Checked for 12 volts and ground at the motor connector (steps 4 and 5 in the troubleshooting guide). Test light indicated a good ground on pin M (black wire) but no 12 volts on pin F (yellow wire). Used a DVM to check the pin F voltage and it was only ~2V. Checked it back in the rear fuse block at fuse 33. Measured ~4 volts there (even on the supply side without the fuse). Does this indicate a fuse block problem or am I missing something?

All voltage checks were performed with the engine running or the ignition in the ON position.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,966 Posts
Test for voltage some of the other fuses at rear box. Also make sure you have a good ground, check voltages Underhood with same ground. If others fuses low check 125Amy fuse under hood. Or possible ignition switch. I posted some fuses to test that when wolf packer had a cruise control problem or something else, ealier this month.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Checked other fuses in the rear fuse box. With the engine running most read in the 14 volt area. Ones that didn't were ones I would not expect to, like turn signal, park and stop lights. However the two fuses adjacent to the wiper fuse (#29 & #31) both read ~2 volts just like the wiper fuse. My previous post indicating ~4 volts at the wiper fuse was incorrect. Must have been using a bad ground location, because now I read ~2 volts at both the fuse and the wiper motor connector.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,966 Posts
Having home computer troubles trying to access service info now that yard work is done.
You can try snugging down the bolts in rear fuse box that hold the two halves together, DON'T over tighten . Note the 4 volt reading was probably a better ground but because you read over twelve at other locations ground good for testing. Trying to find what feeds those fuses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the help Autoprof. I already checked the bolts and snugged them just a bit. No change. I am ignoring my yard work to do my SSR work!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,966 Posts
OK I got the diagram I needed

It seems all three fuses fed from same circuit of ignition switch.
However they are also all fed from 40A fuse #41 under hood fuse box.
Test Fuse 41 first -- then test brown wire from ignition switch in accy and run positions.

Diagram attached

This should do it!
Let us know!


I would have skipped yard work IF SSR was at home - still hibernating at local store and sell location -- its like going to an indoor car show every month when I go to pay rent. https://www.cruisinclassicsinc.com/index.php
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,966 Posts
The brown wire is also B6 at connector 201
Large connector at base of steering column vs taking column covers off.
See connector diagram B6 in upper left of 3 row connector

Best of luck, I hope this helps
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
This is great info. After your first reply I went back out and checked under hood fuse #41. Fuse is good, voltage is ~14 with engine running. Tried to follow Dicktator's instructions for removing the steering wheel column covers and had no luck. Came in to send a reply and saw your second reply. Will now go out and look for that connector to check voltage. Sounds like this is leading to the ignition switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Think We Found It!

Finally got the steering column cover off so I could access the ignition switch (couldn't find connector 201 but did find that I am not as flexible as I was in my youth!). Checked the voltage on pin A (brown wire) on the ignition switch. It only goes to ~2 volts when in the accessory or run position, just like at the rear fuse box. Removed the ignition switch and checked for continuity from common pin B to pin A. In the off position, it is open, in the accessory and run position it goes to a large resistance (~5 Mohm) instead of a short. Pin B to pin C stays open until in the run position and then it goes to a dead short, as it should. So I think I have a set of bad contacts in the ignition switch. I know this is a known common problem with early units but thought I was safe with build #21100 from 5/17/2005. The switch is all black. Will search previous threads for description of the good vs. bad switches.

Thanks for all your help!
 

·
SSR Pit Crew
Joined
·
12,775 Posts
Ignition switch had pour contact material, GM upgraded in mid 05 to tungsten point material which improved switch by a lot.

They kept same part# A/CDelco D1426D but changed one cover to grey on the upgraded switch.

They are some "knock-off'" out there, insist on A/C Delco D1426D for best results.

EVERYTHING goes thru ignition switch!! Switch MUST see 9 Volts for everything to work correctly.

Multiplex wiring is sensitive to voltage signal, we are dealing with computer modules.

If switch gets poor contact, wrong voltage signal is sent to ECM.

If you haven't changed ignition switch or can't remember the last time you changed it, I urge you to do so now!

On my SSR How to Library: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5!853&cid=3EF39D9F5ADCE5E5

I change BATTERY, NEGATIVE CABLE and INGNITION SWITCH about every 4 or 5 years.

Just don't want problems. Only have 127,000 miles.

Dicktator

Ignition Switch, last picture shows GREY cover.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks guys. I ordered a new switch from Mike on Saturday night. Can't wait to get it and resolve this issue.
 

·
Ex SoCal Nut
Joined
·
9,933 Posts
Thanks guys. I ordered a new switch from Mike on Saturday night. Can't wait to get it and resolve this issue.
Did you actually determine that the motor is rotating?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
It was definitely the switch!

Finally got time to replace the ignition switch. I now have working wipers! Hardest part was getting the steering column cover back on. Thanks to all who chimed in for your help - especially Autoprof for the schematics and troubleshooter.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top