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2006 Pacific Blue 6 speed Custom
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I have always used a local company who uses an oil based rust protection system. I really don't know the product name but I can find out. My daily go to work car was a 2009 Chevy Cobalt that I bought new and had it treated and touched up annually here in NW Ohio. I sold the car last summer with absolutely zero rust. I never replaced any fuel lines nor brake lines. Still had the original exhaust system after 243,000 miles. I also ran it through the car wash once a week through the "salt season". I was so pleased with the results that I had my 2018 GMC Sierra done when it was new as I plan on getting 200,000 miles on that as well. In regards to my SSR, it gets put up for the winter but our winters are a bit milder and shorter than yours. ;)

We do have an SSR owner here in Defiance that does drive his SSR all year round. He takes off the OEM rims in the winter and just runs steel wheels with snow tires. Seems to drive just fine for him as its his work truck of sorts!

Again welcome to the family! Keep an eye out as we will have "Meet and Greets" with little Day Rallies here in NW Ohio. Come on down and join us! ;)
Larry
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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80 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I have always used a local company who uses an oil based rust protection system. I really don't know the product name but I can find out. My daily go to work car was a 2009 Chevy Cobalt that I bought new and had it treated and touched up annually here in NW Ohio. I sold the car last summer with absolutely zero rust. I never replaced any fuel lines nor brake lines. Still had the original exhaust system after 243,000 miles. I also ran it through the car wash once a week through the "salt season". I was so pleased with the results that I had my 2018 GMC Sierra done when it was new as I plan on getting 200,000 miles on that as well. In regards to my SSR, it gets put up for the winter but our winters are a bit milder and shorter than yours. ;)

We do have an SSR owner here in Defiance that does drive his SSR all year round. He takes off the OEM rims in the winter and just runs steel wheels with snow tires. Seems to drive just fine for him as its his work truck of sorts!

Again welcome to the family! Keep an eye out as we will have "Meet and Greets" with little Day Rallies here in NW Ohio. Come on down and join us! ;)
Larry
Larry,

You have just sold my on getting the treatment on my SSR. The oil based product would be of great interest if you could tell me the name of the place where you go to get it done, and I will look them up. The more I drive my SSR, the more I know I did the right decision to sell both my daily driver and Street Rod Truck (Opps, I still have to sell my high end 68 C-10). Yes, the "salt season" is how I named it years ago, and many in my area call winter the "salt season" now. But when I ran a manufacturing company in N.W. WI, they just plowed and sanded the roads. Sure wish they would do that here. MN is the same way about plowing and sanding and the U.P. as well.

Thanks for your input, it sure helped.

Street Rod Andy
 
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Hi Street Rod Andy,

I've used Rust Check since 1987 and have been very pleased with their results. It a penetrating lubricant applied at a high pressure with a reapplication recommended every year. It sounds similar to what you and Larry have described. I see there's several locations in Michigan.

Rust Check: Rust Check | Cars | Vans | Trucks – Best Rust Proofing Application

Regards,
Bob
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hi Street Rod Andy,

I've used Rust Check since 1987 and have been very pleased with their results. It a penetrating lubricant applied at a high pressure with a reapplication recommended every year. It sounds similar to what you and Larry have described. I see there's several locations in Michigan.

Rust Check: Rust Check | Cars | Vans | Trucks – Best Rust Proofing Application

Regards,
Bob
Thanks, Bob,

I see they have many locations in Canada, but none in Michigan. And you are correct, these products sounds like all the others I favor.

Street Rod Andy
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
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Let me explain that I live in Michigan, and we must use salt on public roads for the "daily drivers" to go about their lives safely. I used to be a "daily driver" but I cured myself. (Can I hear an AMEN, out there?) And I am in that time of life where I want to drive what I want to drive, NOT to drive what makes better sense for me to drive. I could lease a new GM vehicle and drive my SSR just after the salt has been washed off the roads by the first two hard rains in spring, and put him away when I see the first salt truck in the fall. But, that leaves me six months of wishing I could drive my SSR. So, at this point I am planning on driving my SSR all year around, and as I currently do now, going to my car wash every week (or more) to keep salt at bay. So, I have researched products that could be used to help prevent what salt can do to vehicles. I would not do something like a heavy wax Zebart. But I am now looking at NH based products and have gone to the local shop of Krown Products, who has been in Canada, the man told me for over 50+ years. This is a thinner based oil product that is fogged inside panels and on the under body. They say it should be done annually, and the cost is about $150 each application. The truck will drip a bit for one to two days as the products seeps into every tight spot. They say the product protects and lubricates working parts like window parts. Has anyone tied this type of product before on their SSR? Please give me feedback on what you found.
Second question, has anyone tried to apply sound deadener on the inside of the roof panel storage container? I seem to be getting more rear road sound than I like to hear. I have used Dynamat extensively in my Show Truck and love what it did to contain sound. Can I stop the motion of the panel folding up by turning off the key and not have problems restarting the
opening process?
And yes, I am really getting to my SSR and have been ordering parts to get him to what love to drive.
Lastly, this site has garnered new friends and one man, Jaybird, lives only 10-15 miles away who Ii will meet soon, so I can test drive his SSR which he has installed all the frame stiffening panels, so I can see if I want to purchase and install some myself.

Street Rod Andy
Hate to throw salt on your wound but you cannot stop rust. Best bet is to move to a southern state where they don’t use salt. I say this from experience as I use to also be a yankee too living in PA until I got smart enough to move to TX.
My dad was the GM at Pennys Auto Center in PA (remember those). At that time he bought a new Dodge Van & converted it to a camper. They just came out with with the new undercoating that you drilled holes into door panels & other areas that were inaccessible. Well, my dad being the proper stand up guy let them use his van as the demonstrator to teach the mechanics the proper way to seal & rust protect vehicles. Dad was so nice that he let them do this 3 times to his van. Surprise surprise about 4 years from doing the initial treatment a rust hole appeared in the center of the drivers door just below the mirror mount. That proved to me that no matter what you do, if you drive in salt you will get rust.
Move South, you can drive year round.
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hate to throw salt on your wound but you cannot stop rust. Best bet is to move to a southern state where they don’t use salt. I say this from experience as I use to also be a yankee too living in PA until I got smart enough to move to TX.
My dad was the GM at Pennys Auto Center in PA (remember those). At that time he bought a new Dodge Van & converted it to a camper. They just came out with with the new undercoating that you drilled holes into door panels & other areas that were inaccessible. Well, my dad being the proper stand up guy let them use his van as the demonstrator to teach the mechanics the proper way to seal & rust protect vehicles. Dad was so nice that he let them do this 3 times to his van. Surprise surprise about 4 years from doing the initial treatment a rust hole appeared in the center of the drivers door just below the mirror mount. That proved to me that no matter what you do, if you drive in salt you will get rust.
Move South, you can drive year round.
I would bet that the undercoating they used was "heavy wax" type (think Zebart) where what I am looking at is very thin oil type product. This stuff is designed to penetrate into the smallest crevices. All the NH type product is fogged into the doors and pillars, so this might be the big difference.
And I can't move south due to family/friends and, well, this is "home". And when a location becomes "home" that is where you belong.

Street Rod Andy
 
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SSR Pit Crew
2004 Silver SSR with Strips. Owned 16yrs. Start 9K, now 159K miles
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I did more on my R years ago. Used Flat Roof Alumunum "Peel & Stick" 36" roll.

Did both directions on cab floor, very pleased with those results. Did doors, a must do! Really helped. Did Roof liner, not the results I expected. Cooler in hot Florida sun but soundproof, nope.
Roof Compartment, a must do!

Did Bed, don't bother.

Dicktator
 

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Let me explain that I live in Michigan, and we must use salt on public roads for the "daily drivers" to go about their lives safely. I used to be a "daily driver" but I cured myself. (Can I hear an AMEN, out there?) And I am in that time of life where I want to drive what I want to drive, NOT to drive what makes better sense for me to drive. I could lease a new GM vehicle and drive my SSR just after the salt has been washed off the roads by the first two hard rains in spring, and put him away when I see the first salt truck in the fall. But, that leaves me six months of wishing I could drive my SSR. So, at this point I am planning on driving my SSR all year around, and as I currently do now, going to my car wash every week (or more) to keep salt at bay. So, I have researched products that could be used to help prevent what salt can do to vehicles. I would not do something like a heavy wax Zebart. But I am now looking at NH based products and have gone to the local shop of Krown Products, who has been in Canada, the man told me for over 50+ years. This is a thinner based oil product that is fogged inside panels and on the under body. They say it should be done annually, and the cost is about $150 each application. The truck will drip a bit for one to two days as the products seeps into every tight spot. They say the product protects and lubricates working parts like window parts. Has anyone tied this type of product before on their SSR? Please give me feedback on what you found.
Second question, has anyone tried to apply sound deadener on the inside of the roof panel storage container? I seem to be getting more rear road sound than I like to hear. I have used Dynamat extensively in my Show Truck and love what it did to contain sound. Can I stop the motion of the panel folding up by turning off the key and not have problems restarting the
opening process?
And yes, I am really getting to my SSR and have been ordering parts to get him to what love to drive.
Lastly, this site has garnered new friends and one man, Jaybird, lives only 10-15 miles away who Ii will meet soon, so I can test drive his SSR which he has installed all the frame stiffening panels, so I can see if I want to purchase and install some myself.

Street Rod Andy
Regarding sound deadening, I am fond of a product that I purchased in 5 gal. buckets called QuietCar. It is waterbased and can be brushed, rollered, or sprayed. It is much lighter than Q-Pads, which I still use near door latches, and it is heat resistant to around 500 degrees, if I remember correctly. Regarding exterior
/underbody rustproofing which I no longer do, but had some success with decades ago here in VT, is using a petroleum based corrosion inhibitor mixed with melted paraffin sprayed on while HOT with a shutz gun.
 

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2003 Chevy SSR
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And what will the greedy corporations and oligarchs do to the price of electricity once we're all dependent on it?


Yes, the Electrics are coming!! I live in Metro Detroit and I hear tons about all electrics. But, I tell my wife that we will have one electric for around town (meaning her car) and one "road car" that runs on gas (that will be mine). But, the real question is where are we going to get all that electric power from? THAT is the real BIG QUESTION, for sure.

Street Rod Andy
 

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Well, we are in the same age bracket, and yes they are coming and my wife (not me) will be driving one. But what is coming AFTER electric cars? My guess is Hydrogen Powered. You know, take in H2O, take out the H as you need it to burn and spit out O into the air. Oxygen making vehicles, that is what we need. And the man who build all test engines for GM for over 20 years (and has been retired for another 20+ years) was working on Hydrogen engines back then.
And if you don't think technology can change that fast, remember Beta Max, 8-Track tapes etc, etc, etc.
Life is a great ride - - - don't even weaken.

Street Rod Andy
Hydrogen is the cleanest but lowest density fuel. You need a huge tank for storage even with hi tech storage techniques (like the underground mines use). A trailer. Better to use the unheralded solid oxide fuel cell, which burns diesel to produce electricity. (The backyard buildible membrane fuel cells use hydrogen fuel) Such an engine takes minutes to spool up and down, so a hybrid solution will be necessary. Honda made a prototype years ago using an Accord and it got 148mpg. It sounded like a technical success but something else has prevented that tech from being manufactured. Bloom Energy made some of these in large cubes for small power plants for buildings and a bunch were sold in Silicon Valley but somehow it never caught on. Too expensive to build?
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
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Hydrogen is the cleanest but lowest density fuel. You need a huge tank for storage even with hi tech storage techniques (like the underground mines use). A trailer. Better to use the unheralded solid oxide fuel cell, which burns diesel to produce electricity. (The backyard buildible membrane fuel cells use hydrogen fuel) Such an engine takes minutes to spool up and down, so a hybrid solution will be necessary. Honda made a prototype years ago using an Accord and it got 148mpg. It sounded like a technical success but something else has prevented that tech from being manufactured. Bloom Energy made some of these in large cubes for small power plants for buildings and a bunch were sold in Silicon Valley but somehow it never caught on. Too expensive to build?
I think that is why, the key is to start with H2O and split "as you use". What you need to store is the H2O. OK, how do we stop it from freezing before we can use?
Well, lots of problems, but who comes up with all the answer should yield a huge payday. Ahhh, the future, pray we will all still be here when we see the answer.

Street Rod Andy
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I did more on my R years ago. Used Flat Roof Alumunum "Peel & Stick" 36" roll.

Did both directions on cab floor, very pleased with those results. Did doors, a must do! Really helped. Did Roof liner, not the results I expected. Cooler in hot Florida sun but soundproof, nope.
Roof Compartment, a must do!

Did Bed, don't bother.

Dicktator
YES, YES, YES many of my questions have been answered. Your mat looks a lot like the Dynamat that I have used, aluminum on top side and a 1/8" sticky black mat on the underside. I have also put mat on the outside door skin reaching through the holes in the inter door panel. From your pictures, is the roof box a box inside the truck? Or better put, is there a space that can be "fogged with rust preventative" between the roof box and the truck outer skin? On the cab of my Street Rod Truck, I also put a layer of "Hush Mat" which is thicker and more sound absorbing. If there was any active rust, I first painted on a layer of POR-15 that turns the rust into a light black coat and STOPS rust forever.
I am glad you advised not to bother with doing the bed of the truck, because I was planning on doing it too. I wondered about the two side vents, could they let in sound? Should I filter them better now? And I think I will add your dollar store flip-flop top cushion pads while I am in there. And I might as well add one drop (small drop) of lubrication on all roof joints, correct? Anything else I might consider doing since I am inside my SSR?
Lastly, I am blown away by all the collective help from all the SSR owners (and some former owners I see) to a new owner like myself. My hat is off to all of my new friends.

Street Rod Andy
 

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I wouldn't let them spray/fog any rust inhibitor inside the doors where the speakers are.
After 16 years as a daily driver plus dozens of winter trips to New England, there is rust on the frame and suspension parts but none on the body.
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I wouldn't let them spray/fog any rust inhibitor inside the doors where the speakers are.
After 16 years as a daily driver plus dozens of winter trips to New England, there is rust on the frame and suspension parts but none on the body.
A very good thought, I better look at the doors very closely.

Thank you
Street Rod Andy
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I did more on my R years ago. Used Flat Roof Alumunum "Peel & Stick" 36" roll.

Did both directions on cab floor, very pleased with those results. Did doors, a must do! Really helped. Did Roof liner, not the results I expected. Cooler in hot Florida sun but soundproof, nope.
Roof Compartment, a must do!

Did Bed, don't bother.

Dicktator
Dicktator,
Well, another question. When you installed the mat inside the bed of your truck, did you do the inside of the bed cover as well? My SSR has the carpeted bed with teak wood (teak looking anyway) slats. And the bed cover roof has a carpeted cover on it, and I have purchased a spoiler. So, the carpeted bed cover roof has to come off so I can install the spoiler. Are there any "best practices" that I might follow to disassemble to covering? As a Street Rodder, I had to just tear into a project and repair my mess-ups later to get the project completed.

Seriously, the collective wisdom of this entire forum blows me away. Is there a "short course" on how to work my way around the forum? I sure could use the help, my two finger typing is bad enough, but guessing where and how to ask questions is of concern.

Street Rod Andy
 
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