Removing the bed cover is 2 person job described in the owner Manual. What ever you do, do not remove the hinges from the cover! the two bright bolts (1 on each side) are indexed so you can get the cover back where it belongs. A furniture pad would be helpful to protect the paint. I believe the carpet is held in place with pins similar to the hood blanket.
Many would say to use 3m body tape and your spoiler will be on for life. I did bolt mine though in hindsight, I would probably tape it second time around. ( Drilling first hole..... Scary!!!)
Ohhhhh, scary is such a profound word - - -. Don't think I would just tape it on, but how to get the inside carpet off the inside of the cover looks like a long task. I better pry off one of the plastic pins that hold on the carpet undercover and buy a complete set before I start. I wonder if anyone has ever tried to take off the majority of the pins and lower the end enough to do the drilling, then finish the attachment of the spoiler and reattach the carpet? Yes, yes, I dread that first hole - - - - - -.
That's exactly what I did. Left the ones up front attached and just dropped the rear.
YES, that is what I wanted to hear! When I saw that the carpet cover was installed with the hinges going through it, I knew that the cover was installed before they put the entire top on the truck. Now, I have a fighting chance - - - -. Oh, another question that I think I already know the answer to. I had backed into my garage to open up the truck bed, so I would be close to my tools. And when I decided to ask all you folks how to continue, the top had been open for a couple of hours. And after I buttoned back up the top and closed the lid, I went to turn my truck around. I saw a wet spot and trail on the garage floor. I tested it by feel and smell it - - - - - it was water. Did my truck bed cover have water in it? Damn - - . So, when I have the truck insides fogged, should I consider pulling the drain line out and asking if they can fog between the two layers of the truck lid? And exactly how did the water get into the area? I would like to seal that opening.
I've not heard of that issue before. Was it possible exhaust condensation as you pulled out? Mine lives outside during the driving season and never had that issue.
I think I read that the 2003 and 2004 didn't have a top drain, but they added one in 2005. They found that water was able to build up inside the top. Was it condensation or water leaking in? I don't know. If I were to guess how much water I saw on my floor, about two cups full, and the water was in the middle of the floor right under where the drain must be. It was not exhaust condensation, I am sure. When I picked up my SSR, on April 15th, it was raining a slow steady rain for the 45 min. drive to my home. I wonder if others have thoughts on this matter - - -
If you are talking about the bed cover when you say Top, there is no drain. The water in the gutters that run along the edges when the cover is closed runs to a drain on the left and right corners at the rear.
I agree, but the leak is into the two top skins (or between the top and inside skin that make up the bed cover. I know know (yet) if rain gets inside the bed. But, time will tell.
When I opened the bed cover to view inside the truck bed for about 2-3 hours, I saw water (clear and about two cups full) on my garage floor. And the water was at about the front of where the truck bed was. Since I drove my SSR home from a dealer when I purchased it (a 45 min drive) in a rainstorm, water must have entered between the two cover skins. And inside the truck bed was dry. I assume that the drain installed at the factory to drain water that might get in between the inter and outer skins that make up the bed cover didn't take out all the water that got inside. I know from my stamped metal production knowledge that any two skins must have a "vent" to prevent the two skins from "ballooning". So I wonder where is that vent? Normally, I would see a 'V' notch in the top skin as it was pressed around the lower (inter) skin. And body sealer is placed over the hemmed seal. [Open your daily driver door and look at the edge where the outside skin wraps around the inter skin and see the "body sealer" pressed over that edge]. But is there another place water could get it?
Thanks for the explanation. I will now pay attention to what I am seeing and try to figure out why you have an issue that I have not encountered, at least to a noticeable extent. Hope I will be able to help you in your search.
Thank you for your thoughts. When I was into metal stamping as a profession, I would normally see a 'V' notch (vent release hole) in the metal that is lapped over the inter skin to the underside. When the body dum-dum was applied that 'V' notch area was left open. And the 'V' notch would drain into the drain gutters that carry rain water around the body to the lowest point and drain out. I agree with your thoughts that when the lid is open, the water should drain forward and out, but when I saw where the drain hose is attached inside my lid, it is back towards the rear about 10". I would like to see 1) an inside picture of a lid without the drain (2003-2004 I think) and 2) an inside picture of an SSR without carpet on the lip but has the drain attached. Should I open a new question, or how do I work this forum to ask for help? I still do not understand how forums work since this is the first time to interact on a forum.
I would suggest you post another question in the SSR Technical Discussion Forum and see if you can get some of our members to post pictures of the items you have mentioned.
