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One of the SoCal Nuts
ROTM 1/2016 - 2006 PacBlues 376 & 29
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Dicktator,
Well, another question. When you installed the mat inside the bed of your truck, did you do the inside of the bed cover as well? My SSR has the carpeted bed with teak wood (teak looking anyway) slats. And the bed cover roof has a carpeted cover on it, and I have purchased a spoiler. So, the carpeted bed cover roof has to come off so I can install the spoiler. Are there any "best practices" that I might follow to disassemble to covering? As a Street Rodder, I had to just tear into a project and repair my mess-ups later to get the project completed.

Seriously, the collective wisdom of this entire forum blows me away. Is there a "short course" on how to work my way around the forum? I sure could use the help, my two finger typing is bad enough, but guessing where and how to ask questions is of concern.

Street Rod Andy
Removing the bed cover is 2 person job described in the owner Manual. What ever you do, do not remove the hinges from the cover! the two bright bolts (1 on each side) are indexed so you can get the cover back where it belongs. A furniture pad would be helpful to protect the paint. I believe the carpet is held in place with pins similar to the hood blanket.
 

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The Susan Lucci of ROTM
2004, lowered, custom paint
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4,070 Posts
Dicktator,
Well, another question. When you installed the mat inside the bed of your truck, did you do the inside of the bed cover as well? My SSR has the carpeted bed with teak wood (teak looking anyway) slats. And the bed cover roof has a carpeted cover on it, and I have purchased a spoiler. So, the carpeted bed cover roof has to come off so I can install the spoiler. Are there any "best practices" that I might follow to disassemble to covering? As a Street Rodder, I had to just tear into a project and repair my mess-ups later to get the project completed.

Seriously, the collective wisdom of this entire forum blows me away. Is there a "short course" on how to work my way around the forum? I sure could use the help, my two finger typing is bad enough, but guessing where and how to ask questions is of concern.

Street Rod Andy
Many would say to use 3m body tape and your spoiler will be on for life. I did bolt mine though in hindsight, I would probably tape it second time around. ( Drilling first hole..... Scary!!!)
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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80 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Many would say to use 3m body tape and your spoiler will be on for life. I did bolt mine though in hindsight, I would probably tape it second time around. ( Drilling first hole..... Scary!!!)
Ohhhhh, scary is such a profound word - - -. Don't think I would just tape it on, but how to get the inside carpet off the inside of the cover looks like a long task. I better pry off one of the plastic pins that hold on the carpet undercover and buy a complete set before I start. I wonder if anyone has ever tried to take off the majority of the pins and lower the end enough to do the drilling, then finish the attachment of the spoiler and reattach the carpet? Yes, yes, I dread that first hole - - - - - -.

And if I keep on with the forum, I better get to developing typing with all fingers, not just two. The hole drilling will be scary for sure.

Street Rod Andy
 

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The Susan Lucci of ROTM
2004, lowered, custom paint
Joined
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4,070 Posts
Ohhhhh, scary is such a profound word - - -. Don't think I would just tape it on, but how to get the inside carpet off the inside of the cover looks like a long task. I better pry off one of the plastic pins that hold on the carpet undercover and buy a complete set before I start. I wonder if anyone has ever tried to take off the majority of the pins and lower the end enough to do the drilling, then finish the attachment of the spoiler and reattach the carpet? Yes, yes, I dread that first hole - - - - - -.

And if I keep on with the forum, I better get to developing typing with all fingers, not just two. The hole drilling will be scary for sure.

Street Rod Andy
That's exactly what I did. Left the ones up front attached and just dropped the rear.
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
That's exactly what I did. Left the ones up front attached and just dropped the rear.
YES, that is what I wanted to hear! When I saw that the carpet cover was installed with the hinges going through it, I knew that the cover was installed before they put the entire top on the truck. Now, I have a fighting chance - - - -. Oh, another question that I think I already know the answer to. I had backed into my garage to open up the truck bed, so I would be close to my tools. And when I decided to ask all you folks how to continue, the top had been open for a couple of hours. And after I buttoned back up the top and closed the lid, I went to turn my truck around. I saw a wet spot and trail on the garage floor. I tested it by feel and smell it - - - - - it was water. Did my truck bed cover have water in it? Damn - - . So, when I have the truck insides fogged, should I consider pulling the drain line out and asking if they can fog between the two layers of the truck lid? And exactly how did the water get into the area? I would like to seal that opening.

Street Rod Andy
 

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The Susan Lucci of ROTM
2004, lowered, custom paint
Joined
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4,070 Posts
YES, that is what I wanted to hear! When I saw that the carpet cover was installed with the hinges going through it, I knew that the cover was installed before they put the entire top on the truck. Now, I have a fighting chance - - - -. Oh, another question that I think I already know the answer to. I had backed into my garage to open up the truck bed, so I would be close to my tools. And when I decided to ask all you folks how to continue, the top had been open for a couple of hours. And after I buttoned back up the top and closed the lid, I went to turn my truck around. I saw a wet spot and trail on the garage floor. I tested it by feel and smell it - - - - - it was water. Did my truck bed cover have water in it? Damn - - . So, when I have the truck insides fogged, should I consider pulling the drain line out and asking if they can fog between the two layers of the truck lid? And exactly how did the water get into the area? I would like to seal that opening.

Street Rod Andy
I've not heard of that issue before. Was it possible exhaust condensation as you pulled out? Mine lives outside during the driving season and never had that issue.
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I've not heard of that issue before. Was it possible exhaust condensation as you pulled out? Mine lives outside during the driving season and never had that issue.
I think I read that the 2003 and 2004 didn't have a top drain, but they added one in 2005. They found that water was able to build up inside the top. Was it condensation or water leaking in? I don't know. If I were to guess how much water I saw on my floor, about two cups full, and the water was in the middle of the floor right under where the drain must be. It was not exhaust condensation, I am sure. When I picked up my SSR, on April 15th, it was raining a slow steady rain for the 45 min. drive to my home. I wonder if others have thoughts on this matter - - -
If this top, with two skins, must have a place to "vent" to equalize pressure, but where is that vent?

Street Rod Andy
 

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Premium Member
2006 S/C Silver & 2006 S/C Pac Blue 6spd
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The cargo area can leak in the rain or during a wash if the seals at the top of the tailgate are not fully stuck down. It is very common. The repair is simple and done with silicone or RTV and masking tape to hold the seal in place until it dries.

It won’t surprise me if fix documented in Dicktator’s One Drive. I know Robert did at YouTube video on it.
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
ROTM 1/2016 - 2006 PacBlues 376 & 29
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30,120 Posts
The reason for closing the tailgate last is because there is no vent to equalize the pressure and the cover moves too much air. You cannot close the cover last and get it to latch properly.
 
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One of the SoCal Nuts
ROTM 1/2016 - 2006 PacBlues 376 & 29
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30,120 Posts
I think I read that the 2003 and 2004 didn't have a top drain, but they added one in 2005. They found that water was able to build up inside the top. Was it condensation or water leaking in? I don't know. If I were to guess how much water I saw on my floor, about two cups full, and the water was in the middle of the floor right under where the drain must be. It was not exhaust condensation, I am sure. When I picked up my SSR, on April 15th, it was raining a slow steady rain for the 45 min. drive to my home. I wonder if others have thoughts on this matter - - -
If this top, with two skins, must have a place to "vent" to equalize pressure, but where is that vent?

Street Rod Andy
If you are talking about the bed cover when you say Top, there is no drain. The water in the gutters that run along the edges when the cover is closed runs to a drain on the left and right corners at the rear.
The reason for closing the tailgate last is because there is no vent to equalize the pressure and the cover moves too much air. You cannot close the cover last and get it to latch and seal properly.
 
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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
The cargo area can leak in the rain or during a wash if the seals at the top of the tailgate are not fully stuck down. It is very common. The repair is simple and done with silicone or RTV and masking tape to hold the seal in place until it dries.

It won’t surprise me if fix documented in Dicktator’s One Drive. I know Robert did at YouTube video on it.
I agree, but the leak is into the two top skins (or between the top and inside skin that make up the bed cover. I know know (yet) if rain gets inside the bed. But, time will tell.

Street Rod Andy
 

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SSR Pit Crew
2004 Silver SSR with Strips. Owned 16yrs. Start 9K, now 159K miles
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I don't suggest time soundproofing Bed Cover or Roof Cover, not very close to the ground.

The SSR is well protected with "Dip" during production.

Downside to soundproofing, you can hear your wife more clearly.

Dicktator
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I don't suggest time soundproofing Bed Cover or Roof Cover, not very close to the ground.

The SSR is well protected with "Dip" during production.

Downside to soundproofing, you can hear your wife more clearly.

Dicktator

Good point about soundproofing and hearing more of one's wife. After I soundproof, I might get exhaust cutouts. And they would work off a switch on my side so when the needs comes up - - - - exhaust goes on.

Street Rod Andy
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
ROTM 1/2016 - 2006 PacBlues 376 & 29
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I am not sure I understand your leak problem. Are you finding water between the parts of the roof and their inside panels, or somewhere in the bed cover, or just worried that you might find that later and you want to fix it while you have things apart?
 

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SSR Pit Crew
2004 Silver SSR with Strips. Owned 16yrs. Start 9K, now 159K miles
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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
t
I am not sure I understand your leak problem. Are you finding water between the parts of the roof and their inside panels, or somewhere in the bed cover, or just worried that you might find that later and you want to fix it while you have things apart?
When I opened the bed cover to view inside the truck bed for about 2-3 hours, I saw water (clear and about two cups full) on my garage floor. And the water was at about the front of where the truck bed was. Since I drove my SSR home from a dealer when I purchased it (a 45 min drive) in a rainstorm, water must have entered between the two cover skins. And inside the truck bed was dry. I assume that the drain installed at the factory to drain water that might get in between the inter and outer skins that make up the bed cover didn't take out all the water that got inside. I know from my stamped metal production knowledge that any two skins must have a "vent" to prevent the two skins from "ballooning". So I wonder where is that vent? Normally, I would see a 'V' notch in the top skin as it was pressed around the lower (inter) skin. And body sealer is placed over the hemmed seal. [Open your daily driver door and look at the edge where the outside skin wraps around the inter skin and see the "body sealer" pressed over that edge]. But is there another place water could get it?

Yes, I would like to find it now. Thank you for help in advance.

Street Rod Andy
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
ROTM 1/2016 - 2006 PacBlues 376 & 29
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30,120 Posts
t


When I opened the bed cover to view inside the truck bed for about 2-3 hours, I saw water (clear and about two cups full) on my garage floor. And the water was at about the front of where the truck bed was. Since I drove my SSR home from a dealer when I purchased it (a 45 min drive) in a rainstorm, water must have entered between the two cover skins. And inside the truck bed was dry. I assume that the drain installed at the factory to drain water that might get in between the inter and outer skins that make up the bed cover didn't take out all the water that got inside. I know from my stamped metal production knowledge that any two skins must have a "vent" to prevent the two skins from "ballooning". So I wonder where is that vent? Normally, I would see a 'V' notch in the top skin as it was pressed around the lower (inter) skin. And body sealer is placed over the hemmed seal. [Open your daily driver door and look at the edge where the outside skin wraps around the inter skin and see the "body sealer" pressed over that edge]. But is there another place water could get it?

Yes, I would like to find it now. Thank you for help in advance.

Street Rod Andy
Thanks for the explanation. I will now pay attention to what I am seeing and try to figure out why you have an issue that I have not encountered, at least to a noticeable extent. Hope I will be able to help you in your search.
Since you have the carpet installed on the bed cover I would suggest you ask someone with out that carpet to send you a picture of the underside of the bed cover. so you can see what you are dealing with. It looks to me like anything that might be in there would have to drain to the forward corners of the cover when it is open and then drain to the ground through the drains in the cutters around the bed, which appear to run inside the body forward of the rear tires.
Automotive lighting Hood Blue Azure Motor vehicle
 

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2005 SSR, Silver with chrome wheels.
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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Thanks for the explanation. I will now pay attention to what I am seeing and try to figure out why you have an issue that I have not encountered, at least to a noticeable extent. Hope I will be able to help you in your search.
Since you have the carpet installed on the bed cover I would suggest you ask someone with out that carpet to send you a picture of the underside of the bed cover. so you can see what you are dealing with. It looks to me like anything that might be in there would have to drain to the forward corners of the cover when it is open and then drain to the ground through the drains in the cutters around the bed, which appear to run inside the body forward of the rear tires.
View attachment 612626
Thank you for your thoughts. When I was into metal stamping as a profession, I would normally see a 'V' notch (vent release hole) in the metal that is lapped over the inter skin to the underside. When the body dum-dum was applied that 'V' notch area was left open. And the 'V' notch would drain into the drain gutters that carry rain water around the body to the lowest point and drain out. I agree with your thoughts that when the lid is open, the water should drain forward and out, but when I saw where the drain hose is attached inside my lid, it is back towards the rear about 10". I would like to see 1) an inside picture of a lid without the drain (2003-2004 I think) and 2) an inside picture of an SSR without carpet on the lip but has the drain attached. Should I open a new question, or how do I work this forum to ask for help? I still do not understand how forums work since this is the first time to interact on a forum.

Forgot to all about 'V' notches, that we see them on the rubber round (or formed) door seal gaskets at the bottom of doors. The 'V' vents out air as we close our doors and lets out any rain or water that might get into that round gasket.

Street Rod Andy
 

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One of the SoCal Nuts
ROTM 1/2016 - 2006 PacBlues 376 & 29
Joined
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30,120 Posts
Thank you for your thoughts. When I was into metal stamping as a profession, I would normally see a 'V' notch (vent release hole) in the metal that is lapped over the inter skin to the underside. When the body dum-dum was applied that 'V' notch area was left open. And the 'V' notch would drain into the drain gutters that carry rain water around the body to the lowest point and drain out. I agree with your thoughts that when the lid is open, the water should drain forward and out, but when I saw where the drain hose is attached inside my lid, it is back towards the rear about 10". I would like to see 1) an inside picture of a lid without the drain (2003-2004 I think) and 2) an inside picture of an SSR without carpet on the lip but has the drain attached. Should I open a new question, or how do I work this forum to ask for help? I still do not understand how forums work since this is the first time to interact on a forum.

Forgot to all about 'V' notches, that we see them on the rubber round (or formed) door seal gaskets at the bottom of doors. The 'V' vents out air as we close our doors and lets out any rain or water that might get into that round gasket.

Street Rod Andy
I would suggest you post another question in the SSR Technical Discussion Forum and see if you can get some of our members to post pictures of the items you have mentioned.
 
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