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Discussion Starter #1
Had my R in a parade today and it won't run. It overheated and died. Starts but won't keep running. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Mike
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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Might help if you provided a few things.
1. Year (Certain years have certain electrical problems)
2. miles.on it
3. have you ever changed ignition key, Etc.
4. Does it turn over?
5. Just click?
6 check do it yourself library for similar problems.
7. put your location as there may be help near by
.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2005
Have not changed ign switch
About 11,500 miles and
It starts and dies when I left go of key
Savannah, GA
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Now that I have had time to analyze the problem, I think it may be the ign switch. It starts fine but as soon as I release the key to the run position it dies. Seems like I read that 2005 had problems with the switch. Glad I have a spare in the glove box. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get to Dick's how to library.
 

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BAD BOW TIE
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I kind of agree with you and being you already have one good place to start. The 2005's also had problem with the wires in the fuse box breaking but that is a little different. Cuts off when hot and broken wire separates but starts right up when cold and wire goes back together. Let us know if the switch is the fix. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your help. I remember the problem with the fuse box. I guess I should also replace the radiator with a hd one from Mike at Simple Engineering. The R is super charged and also doesn't like to go slow. Also has a different cam. Of course yellow is faster, ha ha
 

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Not to bust anybody's chops ( but it is fun to do) this is an important lesson for all the newbies out there and guys who put things off. If you have owned your truck for awhile and been on this site enough you should know by now the major things that should be done to your truck to make it more reliable. Ignition switch , ABS break shield, lower shift connection for automatics, stepper motors, replace OEM fan with Mike's fan, etc etc. Doing a little preventive maintenance before hand and enjoying your ride sure feels better then sitting on the side of the road wondering what the hell went wrong.
 

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Not to bust anybody's chops ( but it is fun to do) this is an important lesson for all the newbies out there and guys who put things off. If you have owned your truck for awhile and been on this site enough you should know by now the major things that should be done to your truck to make it more reliable. Ignition switch , ABS break shield, lower shift connection for automatics, stepper motors, replace OEM fan with Mike's fan, etc etc. Doing a little preventive maintenance before hand and enjoying your ride sure feels better then sitting on the side of the road wondering what the hell went wrong.
:rolleyes:

Yeah, most of us know this stuff, but there is still that (if it ain't broke don't fix it) that also makes a lot of sense. My Chevy Avalanche is also a 2005 model. Now it has around 125,000 miles on it (which is actually low miles for one that age). Am I thinking of swapping out the ignition switch.........Hell no. Do I expect it will be a problem soon...........No I do not.

Meantime, I do indeed with my (2005 SSR), maintain a back up ign. switch and instructions/tools to swap it out if necessary. Am I gonna do it "just for a drill"..........No.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I totally agree with your assessment. My problem is I have too many cars/trucks in my collection and can't due everything at once but I am definitely going to pay attention to your advice. Thank you very much.
Mike
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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Thanks for your help. I remember the problem with the fuse box. I guess I should also replace the radiator with a hd one from Mike at Simple Engineering. The R is super charged and also doesn't like to go slow. Also has a different cam. Of course yellow is faster, ha ha
The radiator is probably NOT the issue. Your truck is supercharged and has need for a much better fan than the OEM unit. The majority of cooling system problems are related to the poor airflow from an OEM cooling fan...... that goes double for supercharged applications........

I’ll help you get this cured, if you need it......

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Mike, thanks for the offer to help. I need several parts from you and definitely a better fan.

Regards, Mike
 

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Mike, thanks for the offer to help. I need several parts from you and definitely a better fan.

Regards, Mike
The fan that you will need is the MFK-2. It will move about twice as much air as the OEM fan. You won’t need the manual override. Please check the 3-pin connector on the truck wire harness closely before you order, as I am seeing an increase in the number of burned connections on that plug.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks, I have been to your site and filled up my cart, just need to find the funds. Appreciate all your help.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would replace the switch today but it was 30 deg when I got up and high of 49. Ain't going to happen today and probably not tomorrow.
 

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Super Road Rocket Pilot
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Supercharged and no start .... many people with similar issues report a fuel pressure issue. Check the pressure at rails for 60PSI and also the gray connector at the fuel pump booster mounted on top of fuse box. Problems reported at gray wire connection, charring means sparking and not a good connection. Clean and spread the pins for better connection or replace.



👉 Add your location on Fanatic PINMAP and locate others
Electronic Repairs - Speedometer, brake, door latch, fuse box, stereo, etc
Custom Billet Accessories - Shift adapter, letters, satin/polished, etc
 

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Daily Driver
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:rolleyes:

Yeah, most of us know this stuff, but there is still that (if it ain't broke don't fix it) that also makes a lot of sense. My Chevy Avalanche is also a 2005 model. Now it has around 125,000 miles on it (which is actually low miles for one that age). Am I thinking of swapping out the ignition switch.........Hell no. Do I expect it will be a problem soon...........No I do not.

Meantime, I do indeed with my (2005 SSR), maintain a back up ign. switch and instructions/tools to swap it out if necessary. Am I gonna do it "just for a drill"..........No.
If it ain't broke don't fix it, but have the spare parts in hand.
 

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Supporting SSR Hobbyist
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Supercharged and no start .... many people with similar issues report a fuel pressure issue. Check the pressure at rails for 60PSI and also the gray connector at the fuel pump booster mounted on top of fuse box. Problems reported at gray wire connection, charring means sparking and not a good connection. Clean and spread the pins for better connection or replace.
I agree.... Spot on...... The “Magnavolt” box that is used to boost fuel pump voltage at higher boost pressure has been problematic across many of the Magnuson installations.

Inspect the electrical connection......

Mike
 

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Curious about the Magnavolt installation I did a search o the internet and found this PDF file for connecting the Magnavolt to a 05-06 SSR.


So it appears that the grey wire is also spliced into the factory harness which could also be a source of a bad connection. So don't just check for a connection problem at the unit itself - follow grey AND yellow wires from the unit to where they are spliced into the factory harness grey wire and check those also.

Regarding possible ignition switch you could check at fuse box for voltage of fuses highlighted in yellow from the following charts with the key in the run position.
PAY particular attention to fuse #19 -- IGN1,BCM fuse. I install a blown fuse in a 04 Avalance at school (just set this up yesterday) the truck will run as long as the key is crank position, as soon as you let off on key it starts to shut down. It acts like the anti-theft mode has been activated.
This circuit from the ignition switch feeds the BCM (body control module) information so it can determine the key position and determine what modules it should wake up (The BCM is the powermaster and tells which modules to wake up and go to sleep). Without the proper voltage here, the BCM thinks you switched back to accessory position and some modules go to sleep causing engine to shut down. NOTE it is used as an input to the BCM it DOES NOT supply power for the BCM to operate.

So if fuse #19 is blown replace it, if not check voltage on both sides of fuse with voltmeter black lead to a good ground red lead on each side of fuse. I recommend testing a know power first (like the the 125 amp fuse, or other fuses in rear fuse box) to ensure you have good connections with voltmeter!. If low voltage is found suspect faulty ignition switch. If ok check remaining fuses in BOTH boxes with voltmeter connected to a good ground.

With further inspection I believe your ignition switch is the culprit - NOT the magnavolt -- when the BCM detects a power feed input problem from the ignition 1 circuit it will continue to run in a fail safe status -- however it will not restart.

Here is where I suspect the ignition switch --

The ignition switch C circuit that feeds the IGN 1 fuse also feeds the low current side of your cooling fan relays. This would render the cooling fans inoperable and cause you over heat concern.

Just some thoughts while side tracked from my school work at home.
 

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