The pin on the drivers side of roof tells the switch to close or open but it may not be the switch that says it is latched.

Go to Technical Discussions, much more there.

Dicktator

1. Remove sunvisors
2. Plastic cover held on with clips
3. You can remove motor Assembly but check with roof tool to see if you can make the light come on or off before removal.
4. Remove bolts that hold assembly be sure to disconnect the connectors first.
5. Now you can bench test switches. Three, One on drivers side, three position "Close" "Neutral" "Open". Two on motor Assembly, one "Close" one "Open".

 

CORRECTION - NEW INFO - See my latest posting on this issue dated 12/15/13.

First - make sure the Roof is fully opened or fully closed. When you open or close the roof - you MUST continue to operate the open or close switch until you hear two (2) audible dings.
Second - check the cargo cover to verify it is closed.
The "Roof Ajar" signal occurs when the CARGO COVER is released and the roof system is not fully opened or not fully closed. The cargo cover switch is located in the Drivers side rear section. The switch connector is located under the truck, behind the back wheel. The two pin connector has a Red/Black wire and a Black wire.
You can disconnect the connector and if the "Roof Ajar" goes away - the switch is defective. Note: This switch also operates the cargo compartment light (if you have a light) - you can verify the switch function by observing the light operation.

 

CORRECTION - NEW INFO - See my latest posting on this issue dated 12/15/13.

First - make sure the Roof is fully opened or fully closed. When you open or close the roof - you MUST continue to operate the open or close switch until you hear two (2) audible dings.
Second - check the cargo cover to verify it is closed.
The "Roof Ajar" signal occurs when the CARGO COVER is released and the roof system is not fully opened or not fully closed. The cargo cover switch is located in the Drivers side rear section. The switch connector is located under the truck, behind the back wheel. The two pin connector has a Red/Black wire and a Black wire.
You can disconnect the connector and if the "Roof Ajar" goes away - the switch is defective. Note: This switch also operates the cargo compartment light (if you have a light) - you can verify the switch function by observing the light operation.

This is about 8 years later, but do you have a pic of the plug to disconnect?

 

aroof Ajar Problem

Guys,
I have a similar, or maybe the same problem with my 2006. I get a roof ajar signal and beeping every couple of minutes regardless of whether the roof is up or down. The cargo lid is closed for sure and in both positions I hold the actuation button until I get the double ding. In some cases I get a timed out notice. My thought was that it could not be a single switch because the micro switch only has two positions, open and closed. Therefore two switches would be required, one for open and one for closed, and maybe a third piece of logic identifying which switch should be made, but maybe the monitor woul donly require on eor the other of them to be made. I don't hav ethe logic. regardless, that make me think of a software problem as it is highly unlikely that both switches failed simultaneously. I took it to the dealer in Irvine Calif and they wanted $1800 to fix it. I told them I woul dcut the wire to the bell first.

I just read this thread and will try the things suggested so far, but wanted to share my problem and mythoughts.

 

Guys,
I have a similar, or maybe the same problem with my 2006. I get a roof ajar signal and beeping every couple of minutes regardless of whether the roof is up or down. The cargo lid is closed for sure and in both positions I hold the actuation button until I get the double ding. In some cases I get a timed out notice. My thought was that it could not be a single switch because the micro switch only has two positions, open and closed. Therefore two switches would be required, one for open and one for closed, and maybe a third piece of logic identifying which switch should be made, but maybe the monitor woul donly require on eor the other of them to be made. I don't hav ethe logic. regardless, that make me think of a software problem as it is highly unlikely that both switches failed simultaneously. I took it to the dealer in Irvine Calif and they wanted $1800 to fix it. I told them I woul dcut the wire to the bell first.

I just read this thread and will try the things suggested so far, but wanted to share my problem and mythoughts.

ED in Fl did the National Tech Seminar presentation on Roof and Roof symptoms.

If you listen to Ed you won't go wrong.

Presently, he is the Best I know on the subject of Roof Operation.

Dicktator

 

Also, make sure you have a fully charged battery AND the engine is running when you open or close the top. I will get time outs and ajar warnings occasionally if either of the above are not true.

 

I had the "Roof Ajar" and chime warning even though I knew that the roof was fully latched and the cargo cover was fully closed. It also appeared when the top was fully down and stowed. This was happening while I had a different roof operational issue related to the wiring harness. Once the wiring harness issue was corrected, the "Roof Ajar" message no longer appeared. With so many interlocks and logic in play for the roof mechanism to operate I am not surprised that an unrelated problem produced a faulty "Roof Ajar" error message. The latch sensors for the roof were all fine.

 

Just had my 05 repaired. New pump and 2 new switches and brackets. You can get new switches if you order them in the bracket assemblies. Cost were about $1800.00 for everything. Glad the extended warranty paid for this. I got to keep the pump and switches. The switches seem to be good-not sticking. The pump went to Klaus at www.tophydralics.com so he could do a pump exchange with Fanatics who need a new pump.
:ssr

 

The pump went to Klaus at www.tophydralics.com so he could do a pump exchange with Fanatics who need a new pump.
:ssr

jgssr,

thanks for mentioning that you sold your broken hydraulic pump p/n 1600223 to Top Hydraulics. Indeed, we rebuild these pumps, and we offer core exchange for the pumps, depending on availability. Don't mean to hijack this thread - just needed to provide a link to our website: Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt and Upgraded Convertible Top Cylinders, Pumps, Hydraulic Lines - Top Hydraulics, Inc

Klaus

Rebuild/Upgrade Service for Chevy SSR Convertible Hydraulic Components - Top Hydraulics, Inc

 

Is "roof ajar" a default all warning? I mean there are all kinds of micro-switches, hall sensors and what not in the system, does it default roof ajar if it senses anything isn't properly operating, or are there more messages?

 

From all the reading I've done in trying to diagnose and repair roof issues I do not believe that "Roof Ajar" is a default message. I haven't pulled my manual to count them all but there are at least seven DIC messages that I can recall.

 

If you have or want to get a DVD from the National Tech Seminar, there is Ed's presentation on Roof Operation and Roof symptoms.

If you watch that presentation it will help you understand the workings.

Dicktator

http://www.ssrfanatic.com/forum/f5/free-national-tech-seminar-dvd-69377/

 

Thanks for all the info. I think I will go for the DVD. One more thing, I do not get the double ding like I should in either direction, just a single ding. Then I get a quick time out like something is really not fully engaged, yet the roof seems to be properly positioned. Sound familiar? Also I read the "How the roof works" from the tech section - nice piece, but I really couldn't use it to trouble shoot the nuances. According to the piece you get the roof ajar message when you try to operate the top with the cargo hatch open. I did pull and replace the 30 amp roof fuse behind the seat, but no change.

 

This is an update on my previous posting on this issue.

The Service Manual says the "Roof Ajar" occurs when the roof system is not fully open or fully closed AND the cargo cover is released.
The Service Manual definition of what causes the "Roof Ajar" DIC is wrong!

What causes the "Roof Ajar" DIC is the roof not being fully opened or not being fully closed OR a malfunction of an input to the Roof Door Module that makes it see the roof not fully opened or fully closed.

ROOF AJAR TESTS

Test 1 - Tonneau Cover Unlatched (roof storage compartment cover)
Unlatched the Tonneau cover
Cargo Bay cover was not “released”
Drove the “R”
Got the “Roof Ajar” DIC

Conclusion - The “Roof Ajar” DIC was caused by the Tonneau being unlatched and the Cargo Cover did not need to be released to cause the DIC.

Test 2 - Cargo Bay cover “Released” test
Starting with the Roof closed,
Unlatched the tonneau cover
Released the Cargo Bay cover
Did not get the “ROOF AJAR” DIC while idling.

Drove the “R”
Got the “ROOF AJAR” DIC

Closed the Cargo Cover
Drover the “R”
Still got the “ROOF AJAR” DIC

Conclusion - The “Roof Ajar” DIC occurs when the roof is not fully opened or fully closed - the cargo bay cover being “released” has NOTHING to do with the “Roof Ajar” DIC.

Test 3 - Hall Effect Switch Description

The roof control system has two Hall Effect Switches that monitor the Tonneau Cover position. A Hall Effect Switch is a coil of wire with DC voltage applied to it. A permanent magnet placed near the coil will change the coil output voltage. GM calls these devices “Switches” - they switch the output voltage from about 4 volts to about 1 volt when activated. (There are no contacts in a Hall Effect Switch)
To see the Tonneau Cover Hall Effect Switch - permanent magnet location
See Photo’s 1, 2 & 3

Test 3 - Hall Effect Switch Failure

Removed one Hall Effect Switch permanent magnet from a Tonneau cover latch bracket.
Closed the Tonneau cover
Drove the “R”
Got the “Roof Ajar” DIC

Conclusion - a defective Hall Effect Switch will give the “Roof Ajar” DIC.
The Hall Effect Switch is the PRIME suspect for causing the “Roof Ajar” DIC.
Other Roof/Door module input failures would give a DIC that is different from “Roof Ajar” DIC.

The best way to determine the cause of a “Roof Ajar” DIC is to use the Tech 2.
The Tech 2 will read the Roof/Door Module inputs to determine which input is causing the “Roof Ajar” DIC.

 

Hi Eric. Not sure which "plug" you're referring to, but have a look at Dicktator's "ROOF AJAR" DIY instructions here or here for additional info and photos. There are a number of other roof-related repairs there too.

If that doesn't do it, be sure to come back and give us some more details.

 

I am getting that Ajar indication with the top up or down; it just showed up one day. I hope to have that Tech2 scanning capability in a recent laptop addition. For now it at least seems meaningful to get the failure in both modes, e.g. it is not going to be a switch behind the windshield in top-down mode. I also got speakers flaking out every way but not when the truck was still. I thought the beep thing was interrupting them but the timing was not the same. And in one of your posts those hall effect switches look like they must end up in the same place with the top all the way up or down. Do any other related interlocks do that?

 

This is a very old thread. Please start your own thread. Starting your own thread keeps the information clear for everyone, and list your symptoms.

And yes the top is tracked by various hall effect sensors and microswitches, but it depends on where your top at. There are dings at various times and I can help, as can others, but I don't want to extend this thread.